The word Champagne, legally, is capitalized because it’s a placename—the famed sparkling wine comes from that small region north of Paris. This is an example of why place-named products are unique and often lead to laws protecting their names and reputations. France, home to the world’s most important wine culture for hundreds of years, has…
Finding Italian Reds in America
Italy’s greatest contribution to all of Europe’s wine culture starts with the fact that wine wasn’t much of a tradition there until Roman legions planted vine cuttings they brought with them in the northern parts of the continent 23 centuries ago. What’s odd about this is that, of all the most popular grapes that took…
Wine True or False
There are a lot of sayings about wine that simply aren’t true. However, a few are true, even though no one really ever tells you which is which. Usually, when we ask an expert, we end up getting a correct answer but without the proper explanation. Here are a few common ones. Red Wine Is…
Winefluencers? Musings From a Skeptic
On the old Jack Benny radio show in the 1940s, a continuing character played by the actor Sheldon Leonard was a racetrack “shill,” who always spoke in a hushed tone. The shady character would suggest to Benny that he bet on a horse “in the third [race],” usually starting his pitch with “hey, bud” and…
How to Make Umeshu, the Spirit of a Japanese Summer
Just as spring slips and summer arrives in Japan, before the mosquitoes swarm and the thick humidity hits in earnest, ume leads the charge into the new season. Ume, Japanese plums, are just as much a part of Japanese art and life as sakura, cherry blossoms. The trees bloom earlier, at the end of winter…
All the Same?
Shortly after I began writing a wine column in 1976, a friend teased me about my avocation. We were journalists working at The Associated Press, and he probably didn’t mean to be disparaging when he said, “All red wines taste the same.” Not a very journalistic approach. Since I had never known him to take…
Australia to Take China to WTO Over Wine Tariffs
The Australian government has decided to pull the trigger and launch a second action against China at the World Trade Organisation (WTO), this time over Beijing’s imposition of hefty tariffs on wine exports. The decision is the latest response from Australia after Beijing launched a year-long economic coercion campaign targeting $20 billion worth of major…
What Is a Winery? A Long-Time Debate in Sonoma County
Sonoma County, often called “the other wine country,” is larger and more diverse than its better-known neighbor, Napa. It has more wine-tasting facilities, hosts dozens of hospitality events (weddings, concerts, charity wine auctions), and has faced complaints from numerous residents upset over traffic, noise, litter, and more. Ancillary events bring tourist dollars, so after decades…
Liquid Test Drive: Tips for Visiting Wine Country
Decades ago, visiting wine country was limited to the few areas of the country with wineries. Outside California, that meant upstate New York and a tiny handful of hamlets scattered hither and mostly yon. Today, that number has expanded to just about every state, including Texas (i.e., Hill Country), Ohio (i.e., Lake Erie), Idaho (i.e.,…
How to Save a Disappointing Bottle of Wine
What do you do when you buy a bottle of wine that, for one reason or another, is not to your liking? If the wine is sound and not spoiled in any way, but you just don’t like the style, you could always cook with it. But that’s impractical and costly. Instead, what if you…
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