The fight between Florentines and the French for the paternity of certain culinary classics, such as duck in orange sauce and crepes, is destined to have no winner. Whether it was Catherine de Medici who brought them from Florence to France, or on the contrary, French gastronomy that inspired Florentine cooks, the delicious results are…
Have Vegetables for Dessert in These Sweet Italian Cakes
It took years to convince me that vegetables could belong in desserts. But Italy’s cucina povera, or peasant cooking tradition, is actually full of cakes with vegetables that perfectly embody the cuisine’s spirit: They use whatever is abundant and in season—not just fruit, but vegetables, too—in an inventive way, turning poor ingredients into rich treats….
Scarpaccia Viareggina (Sweet Zucchini Cake)
This thin, moist cake, filled with tender young zucchini and the unmistakable fragrance of basil, is a traditional cake from the coastal town of Viareggio in northern Tuscany. It was traditionally baked by old sailors with zucchini from their vegetable gardens. Now, come summertime, when zucchini flood market stalls and overtake backyard gardens, locals still…
The Best, Easiest Way to Make Canned Beans Taste Homemade
As much as I appreciate the slow and steady act of simmering a pot of dried beans, canned beans are my lifeline. They’re what I reach for most nights when I’m in need of a quick protein-rich meal that doesn’t rely on the ubiquitous boneless, skinless chicken breast. And with a little TLC, canned beans…
Rice Pudding Meets Caramel Custard in a Festive Tuscan Cake
I’ve never been to Massa and Carrara, two towns in the northwest of Tuscany, wedged between Liguria and Emilia Romagna. But a few years ago during a book launch in Volterra, I met Angela, a bookshop owner whose family had moved there from Massa and Carrara. She gave me the chance to get to know…
Tortelli Mugellani With Potato Filling
Tortelli mugellani are a type of filled pasta typical of Mugello, a mountainous area near Florence, bordering Emilia Romagna. They are one of the most representative recipes of the cuisine, which is Tuscan, based on poor ingredients, but influenced by the nearby region, Emilia Romagna. Women in Mugello know how to roll out the dough…
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